How Long Does Jb Weld Take To Dry?

A Few Similar Products – Strength Set Time Cure Time Cure Color \r\n \r\n J-B Weld™ is The Original Cold Weld two-part epoxy system that provides strong, lasting repairs to metal and multiple surfaces. Mixed at a ratio of 1:1, it forms a permanent bond and can be shaped, tapped, filed, sanded and drilled after curing. At room temperature, J-B Weld™ sets in 4-6 hours to a dark grey color. A full cure is reached in 15-24 hours. J-B Weld™ has a tensile strength of 5020 PSI and sets to a hard bond overnight. It can withstand temperatures up to 550\u00baF when fully cured. “,”great-for-list-item”:,”use-on-list-item”:,”set-time”:”4-6 Hours”,”cure-time”:”15-24 Hours”,”additional-attributes”:null,”size”:null,”data-sheet”:”240098″,”prop-65″:”244570″,”quantity-dropdown”:null,”max-quantity”:null,”page-inputs”:null,”step-title”:””,”hide-comparison-grid”:null,”retailers-heading”:null,”retailers-title”:null,”retailers-content”:null,”retailers”:null,”reviews”:null,”review-1″:null,”review-2″:” \r\n\r\n \r\n\r\n \r\n\r\n “}” data-url=”/product/j-b-weld-professional-size”> J-B Weld™ Professional Size 10 oz \r\n \r\n 85 fl. oz. syringe \r\n\r\n KwikWeld™ is a fast-setting version of The Original J-B Weld two-part epoxy cold weld system that provides strong, lasting repairs to metal and multiple other surface types. After mixing, it forms a permanent bond and can be shaped, tapped, filed, sanded and drilled after curing. KwikWeld™ has a 1:1 mixing ratio, sets in 6 minutes and is fully cured in 4-6 hours. KwikWeld™ cures to a dark grey color, is rated at a tensile strength of 3127 PSI and will withstand temperatures up to 300\u00baF. “,”great-for-list-item”:,”use-on-list-item”:,”set-time”:”6 Minutes”,”cure-time”:”4-6 Hours”,”additional-attributes”:null,”size”:null,”data-sheet”:”240112″,”prop-65″:”244570″,”quantity-dropdown”:null,”max-quantity”:null,”page-inputs”:null,”step-title”:””,”hide-comparison-grid”:null,”retailers-heading”:null,”retailers-title”:null,”retailers-content”:null,”retailers”:null,”reviews”:null,”review-1″:null,”review-2″:” \r\n\r\n \r\n\r\n \r\n\r\n “}” data-url=”/product/kwikweld-syringe”> KwikWeld™ Syringe – 25 ml \r\n \r\n J-B Weld™ Syringe is the original cold-weld™ two-part epoxy system that provides strong, lasting repairs to metal and multiple surfaces. Mixed at a ratio of 1:1, it forms a permanent bond and can be shaped, tapped, filed, sanded and drilled after curing. At room temperature, J-B Weld™ sets in 4-6 hours to a dark grey color. Full cure is reached in 15-24 hours. J-B Weld™ has a tensile strength of 5020 PSI and sets to a hard bond overnight. It can withstand temperatures up to 550 \u2070 when fully cured. \r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n “,”great-for-list-item”:,”use-on-list-item”:,”set-time”:”4-6 hours”,”cure-time”:”15 hours”,”additional-attributes”:null,”size”:null,”data-sheet”:”240110″,”prop-65″:”244919″,”quantity-dropdown”:null,”max-quantity”:null,”page-inputs”:null,”step-title”:””,”hide-comparison-grid”:null,”retailers-heading”:null,”retailers-title”:null,”retailers-content”:null,”retailers”:null,”reviews”:null,”review-1″:null,”review-2″:” \r\n\r\n \r\n\r\n \r\n\r\n “}” data-url=”/product/j-b-weld-syringe”> J-B Weld™ Syringe – 25 ml

Contents

0.1 Can you make J-B Weld dry faster?
0.2 How strong is J-B Weld after 4 hours?

1 What will J-B Weld not stick to?
2 What is the fastest cure time for J-B Weld?
- 2.1 Is J-B Weld as strong as a real Weld?
  - 2.1.1 Will J-B Weld work if it gets wet?
3 Is J-B Weld as strong as steel?
4 Is J-B Weld harder than steel?
- - 4.0.1 Is J-B Weld stronger than epoxy?
- 4.1 Is J-B Weld just glue?
5 Will J-B Weld bond to plastic?
6 Can you apply a second layer of J-B Weld?
7 What is stronger than J-B Weld?
8 Why is my J-B Weld not drying?
9 How long does it take for J-B Weld stick to harden?
- 9.1 Can you layer J-B Weld?

Can you make J-B Weld dry faster?

Is there an easier way to speed up JB Weld cures? – Yes, a simpler technique hastens the cure of jb weld water weld. A hairdryer on the highest setting may hasten the JB Weld’s curing process. The jb weld cure time may be slashed by up to 50% by using the hair dryer in the JB Weld application area.

How strong is J-B Weld after 4 hours?

Original Twin Tube Epoxy

	J-B Weld Original Steel Reinforced Epoxy	J-B Weld KwikWeld Steel Reinforced Epoxy
Cure Color	Dark Grey	Dark Grey
Set Time	4-6 Hours	6 Minutes
Cure Time	15-24 Hours	4-6 Hours
Strength (PSI)	5020 PSI	3127 PSI

What will J-B Weld not stick to?

Where can I see your full product catalog? You can download our product catalog here, What is the difference between Twin Tubes, Syringes, Putty Sticks, SuperGlues, Repair Wraps, and Pastes?? J-B Weld products in twin tubes, syringes, and putty sticks all consist of two-component epoxies, consisting of a resin and a hardener, that – when combined – harden to bond on most surfaces.

Twin Tubes: The original! Resins and hardeners are in two separate tubes that you dispense in equal parts onto a surface for mixing and application using a wooden stick or other method. Syringes: Resins and hardeners are in two separate containers within one syringe unit; pressing the plunger will dispense the resin and hardener in equal parts onto a surface for mixing and application. You can also attach a single-use static mixer that will mix equal portions upon dispensing, and apply directly to the surface. Putty Sticks: Our epoxy putty sticks contain an outer and inner layer that, when mixed by (gloved) hand, become a moldable, shapable solution that can seal cracks and repair holes. SuperGlues: Our SuperWeld line offers innovative high-strength super glues. They’re easy to use, set quickly and are ideal for instant bonding on crafts, home and auto repairs and more. Repair Wraps: FiberWeld repair casts combine high-strength fiberglass wraps with adhesive for quick-curing repairs or structural reinforcement. They’re easy to apply; just dip in water, wrap around the damaged area and secure with the supplied bandage to cure. After curing, the wraps can be sanded and painted. Repair Pastes: Exhaust Repair pastes and adhesives are designed to seal and structurally repair almost any part of your vehicle’s exhaust system. These products are specially formulated to withstand extremely high temperatures.

Is J-B Weld food-safe? When fully cured, J-B Weld is non-toxic. Our products are not rated food-safe, and we do not recommend consuming the product or using it on areas that directly touch food or beverage. Will J-B Weld conduct electricity? No. J-B Weld is not considered to be a conductor.

It is an insulator. How can I remove J-B Weld products from hands/skin or surfaces? Acetone or acetone-based products will remove most J-B Weld from hands and most surfaces. In some instances, a light to moderate abrasive might be required. When fully cured, some J-B Weld products can only be removed by grinding or filing it off, or by directly heating the product above the 600º maximum temperature threshold.

What can I use as a surface cleaner before using J-B Weld? How else should I prepare surfaces? We recommend roughing up surfaces using a light sandpaper or other abrasive cloth prior to application to ensure sufficient bond. To clean, we recommend using acetone or lacquer thinner.

Any flexible rubber surface Canvas Polypropylene plastic Polyethylene plastic Leather or Vinyl (use our LeatherWeld kit for these repairs)

Can I thin J-B Weld epoxies to make it easier to pour? Yes. Add up to one teaspoon of acetone or lacquer thinner per two ounces (one full package) of mixed product.

What is the fastest cure time for J-B Weld?

J-B KwikWeld has a 1:1 mixing ratio, sets in 6 minutes and is fully cured in 4-hours to 6-hours. J-B KwikWeld cures to a dark grey color, is rated at a tensile strength of 2424 psi and will withstand temperatures up to 300°F.

Is J-B Weld as strong as a real Weld?

Is JB Weld as good as welding? No. JB weld has its uses but it is an epoxy glue that has iron power in and is nowhere as strong as a weld.

Will J-B Weld work if it gets wet?

ATLANTA, Jan.28, 2014 /PRNewswire/ – Unseasonably cold weather continues across the country, with temperatures still sub-zero in several states. People heeded warnings this winter – they let taps drip, wrapped exterior plumbing, and opened cabinet doors – to keep things warm enough to ward off frozen pipes. Even when preventative steps are taken, pipes, tanks and joints, especially in older homes, are susceptible to freezing. When water becomes ice, it expands, putting pressure on whatever is containing it. That’s why many times cracks and bursts won’t be noticed until ice inside the pipes thaw.

First, determine what kind of pipes are in your home. J-B Weld WaterWeld is your best bet for PVC, SteelStik is ideal for cast iron, copper or other metal. Turn off the water that flows through the broken pipe. Clean the surface to be repaired, then roughen it with a file or sandpaper for best results. Once you’ve chosen the best J-B Weld epoxy adhesive for your plumbing problem, thoroughly knead with fingers until it reaches a uniform color. Wrap the putty around the pipe, pressing the plug into the hole to seal the leak, as well as flattening the edges to secure it down. Don’t just plug the hole. Consider the pressure of the water and use enough J-B Weld to hold the affected pipe area. Allow the patch to fully cure for at least one hour.

J-B Weld WaterWeld is a specially-formulated epoxy putty that can be applied to a wet, leaking, or even underwater surface. Once kneaded, it can be easily molded. J-B Weld WaterWeld has a set time of 15 to 25 minutes, and will be fully cured, solid as steel, after just 60 minutes.

SteelStik is a hand-mixable, steel-reinforced, non-rusting epoxy putty adhesive and sealant used to plug holes and make permanent repairs on wet and dry metal surfaces. It sets in just 3 to 5 minutes, and is fully hardened after one hour. “J-B Weld can save you time, frustration and money this winter,” said Chip Hanson, J-B Weld CEO.

“Both WaterWeld and SteelStik can stop a leak until you can reassess the situation and call a professional, if necessary. Our products provide not only permanent mends, but outstanding value. A $5 package of J-B Weld can save consumers an average of $150 in replacement or repair costs.

And you’re saving time when you aren’t sitting around waiting for a plumber.” J-B Weld offers quick, simple solutions to other winter weather woes as well. WaterWeld and SteelStik are also handy to have around the house to fix broken shovels, snow throwers, sleds and more. To find your repair solution, visit the products section of jbweld.com, ask a question on the Facebook page, or call a customer service representative who can provide the best product recommendation at 903.885.7696.

About J-B Weld J-B Weld, the leader of epoxy adhesive, is based in Sulphur Springs, Texas and has an office in Atlanta, Ga. For more than 40 years, J-B Weld products have earned a loyal and enthusiastic following from the people who take pride in their work.

J-B Weld products bond strong to a variety of surfaces in even the toughest environments and provide cost-effective repair options. Family of products includes J-B Weld, J-B Kwik, J-B Stik, WaterWeld, IndustroWeld, MarineWeld, Perm-O-Seal, WoodWeld, and ClearWeld. J-B Weld products have always been made in the USA,

J-B Weld products are available at more than 50,000 retail locations in the U.S., Canada, Mexico and many outlets around the world. To find J-B Weld products, please visit jbweld.com/locations, For information, tips, and advice on J-B Weld please visit our website or “like” our Facebook page,

Is J-B Weld as strong as steel?

Top positive review – 5.0 out of 5 stars > DOES THE JOB Reviewed in the United States 🇺🇸 on March 28, 2012 WHEN TO USE EPOXY CEMENT When you need a strong rigid workable (e.g. sandable and/or paintable surface) adhesive, particularly for use on metal or hard plastic, epoxy is usually the best choice. Most epoxies dry with little running or shrinkage, and so are good for filling gaps. The major drawback to epoxies is that they consist of two parts (resin and hardener) which must be mixed in small batches, and then applied with your own applicator (e.g., a toothpick or popsicle stick). Some are packaged in a dual-syringe-but that is not an adequate solution, because the components must still be manually mixed in order harden to maximum strength. WHEN TO USE JB-WELD JB-Weld is a very strong epoxy cement. JB-Weld is the cement/glue of choice when joining metal parts or filling holes in metals. Otherwise, ordinary epoxy cement or other types of cements/glues are usually better choices. Some other reviewers have complained that the descriptive name “weld” is inappropriate-to some extent that’s true. JB Weld can do some jobs welding can’t. Conversely some simple welding jobs like joining two thin metal rods at right angles are difficult with JB Weld. HOW TO USE JB-WELD General Principles: Although JB WELD makes an excellent filler-and can even be used to cast small parts, it is not remotely as strong as real metal used this way. Whenever possible, use JB WELD as an adhesive-a very thin layer of JB WELD holding two pieces of metal together. Always reinforce with metal pieces when possible. For example, rather than building up a massive flange with JB Weld, you might be able to use scrap peice of metal to form most of the flange, held in place with JB Weld. The greater the relative surface area of contact, the strong the bond will be. Surface Preparation: As with any adhesive, the surface must be clean and rough. Clean with a solvent (according to another reviewer, acetone is the best solvent for this purpose, but rubbing alcohol will work), roughen the surface, then clean with the solvent again. Use a clean cloth for each application of solvent. I generally use a small grinding wheel in a Dremel tool to roughen the surfaces. You can also scratch the surface with a knife, or use coarse sandpaper, or both depending on the material. The solvent cleaning is for removing the LAST TRACES of oil from CLEAN surfaces. If the parts are oily, even multiple cleanings with solvent may not be enough-you may redeposit oil from your cleaning cloth or as the solvent evaporates on the surface. So, if you can detect any oil on any portion of the part, or if you have any doubt, clean it with a degreaser first. If you do not have a commercial degreaser handy, a paste of laundry detergent and a stiff brush may do the trick. Only when you are certain that there are no traces of oil is it time for the solvent cleaning(s). Joining Broken Parts: If you are joining broken parts, with a clean but irregular matching surfaces, limit the roughening to scratching with a wire brush or etching with an acid (but be sure to wash off all traces of the acid). Apply a THIN uniform layer of JB WELD, lightly clamp together hard enough to squeeze out any excess. Sometimes a thick rubber band is perfect. Often you can arrange pieces so that the weight of the top piece will hold the joint together until the JB Weld cures. Sometimes you can place a weight (such as a brick) on top to apply gentle pressure. Do not remove the clamp or pressure until the JB Weld has cured completely. After an hour or two, after the glue has set but is still soft, you can cut off any excess with a knife or razor-but if you don’t need to cut the excess off, don’t. Often you can build-up the surfaces around a break for added strength. Sometimes blue painters tape can be used to help hold pieces together while the glue sets, and/or to make a temporary stand to hold the pieces in the best orientation. ScotchBlue Painter’s Tape for Multi-Surfaces 2090-.75A, 3/4 Inches by 60 Yards, 1 Roll Joining Dissimilar Parts: Minimize any gaps if possible, e.g., by sanding if possible so that the contact as perfect as possible. If you will be filling substantial gaps, sometimes it is helpful to cover openings with blue painters tape to prevent the JB Weld from flowing away and leaving gaps. Joining Long Thin Parts (rods or sheets): Try to overlap if possible, or reinforce them with a similar overlapping peice of metal glued in place with JB Weld. To join a 1/8″ steel rod, to another 1/8″ steel rod, forming a “T” (a common and easy welding job, almost impossible with just JB-Weld), cut two 1″-long “L’s” from a heavy-paper clip, (or make L’s from similar wire), and embed those with JB-Weld on opposite sides of the joint. You can further strenthen the joint by wrapping fine steel wire around the rods holding the “L”s in place-before covering it all with JB-Weld. Be sure to thoroughly clean the rods and wires first (see below). For small parts, or when wire wouldn’t work well, unwaxed dental floss is remarkably strong, and can do an excellent job of reinforcing joints (when embeded in JB Weld). Ideally, apply the JB Weld, then wind the floss tightly into the soft JB Weld. Filling Holes: Don’t forget to prepare the surfaces as described above-even if you can only roughen the surfaces with an ice pick or awl. JB Weld shrinks very little as it cures so fill the hole completely. If it is possible to sand the surface when the JB Weld has hardened, then overfill the hole slightly. Since JB Weld flows a little until it sets, the surface should be horizontal. If not horizontal, you can apply the JB Weld and then cover the hole with blue painters tape until the JB Weld sets. Depending on the job, it is often a better strategy to fill the gap as much as possible with a piece (or pieces) of metal embedded in JB Weld that a single mass of pure JB Weld. Reinforcing a leaking pipe: Work JB Weld into a piece of fiberglass cloth or with a spatula, apply, and then add more JB Weld to any thin spots and to feather out the edges. You may have to apply several layers of the JB Weld-saturated fiberglass cloth. Sometimes wire cloth (window screening) can be used. Holes in car body panels etc: If you can cover at least one side of the hole with a piece of sheet metal (held in place by JB Weld) that is a good strategy-the combination of pop-rivets and JB Weld often works especially well, even if you ultimately sand the heads of the pop rivets away. TEKTON 6555 Rivet Gun with 40-pc. Rivets Mixing: Follow the instructions. A paper plate can be a good mixing surface; popsicle sticks are the best mixing tools. Beware that you must use the same amount of resin and hardener, and they MUST be VERY thoroughly mixed. Mix until you are certain that it is completely and thoroughly mixed, and then continue mixing for twice that time. Seriously!!! Curing: Follow the instructions, but wait longer than recommended: the longer you wait the stronger the bond. A a day or two at 70 or 80 degrees is a reasonable MINIMUM. Note that epoxies do not “dry”-there are no solvents to evaporate, instead a chemical reaction hardens the cement (a plastic resin). Chemical reactions are proportional to temperature (the rule of thumb is that for each 10 degrees, the reaction speed doubles). Using the rule of thumb, if it takes 1 day to cure at 80 degrees, then it takes 16 days to cure at 40 degrees, and that’s only to minimally cured. Okay, I know that waiting this long is not practical in many circumstances-you can probably get away with curing for 4 hours at 90 degrees (but don’t go much higher than 90 degrees), and “take it easy” for a couple of days. WHEN TO USE OTHER EPOXIES For materials other than metal, particularly for rigid plastics, other epoxies are usually better than JB Weld. Some epoxies are clear, or white, or specialized for particular purposes. For example CLEARBOND H-3S Clear Strong Epoxy Adhesive Syringe -,85oz WHEN TO USE QUICK-EPOXIES Ordinary (slow) epoxies (whether JB Weld or other epoxies) dry harder than quick epoxies and are generally the best choice. Maximum strength is the whole point of epoxies-if you don’t need maximum strength-you probably do not need epoxy. Use quick epoxies when 1) the hardening speed is essential, 2) when the item cannot be supported in the required orientation while the epoxy sets (at least several hours), or 3) when you have to absolutely minimize flowage. Super-glue is often a good alternative in such situations. WHEN TO USE OTHER CEMENTS OR GLUES While epoxies are ideal for a few specific uses (primarily when you need a rigid cement for metal or rigid plastic)-there are many situations when other types of glue are better choices. Epoxies are generally NOT recommended for flexible surfaces, such as leather, wood, or flexible plastic, and generally do not adhere well to glass, etc. While epoxies may work with porous surfaces (paper, wood, ceramics, etc.), other adhesives are usually better. White Glue: For most light-duty indoor household applications which do not have to be waterproof, ordinary household white glue is safe, cleanup is very easy, and in most cases repairs are redo-able if you make a mistake. White glue shrinks a great deal as it dries, and so is not good for filling holes or large gaps. For example: Elmer’s All Multipurpose White Glue, 7 5/8 oz. (E379) Glue Stick: Think of glue sticks as thick white household glue in stick form. Glue sticks are great with paper, but have few other applications. Avery Glue Stic, 0.26 oz, Pack of 6, (98095) Wood Glue: Carpenters’s wood glue is essentially water-proof (when dry) white household glue. It penetrates and strengthens the wood better than any other type of glue. It is safe, and cleanup is easy. If the joint breaks again (because the wood is weak), it can be re-glued. For example: Elmer’s E701 Carpenter’s Wood Glue 8-Ounce Goop: Goop will bond virtually any material, including leather, plastics, glass, and metal. The bond is clear, VERY strong, waterproof, and hard but flexible. Since Goop is clear, if a little extra oozes out, it is barely noticeable. I’ve used Goop to repair ceramic plant pots, water hoses, and shoes; to seal holes in air-mattresses, to close small holes in window screens, as plumbers paste in assembling plumbing parts, to I also use it to seal rust spots on my dishwasher rack-the Goop it also makes a “cushioned” surface that will prevent scratches to dishes. Goop is particular good for repairing damaged electrical cords. Amazing Goop All-Purpose Household Goop, 3.7-Ounce Tube #130012 Silicon Glue: Silicon glue is best for glass, and when you want a truly flexible connection (for example, to absorb vibrations). It is a good alternative for Goop for general household use on glass, plastic, and metal when you do not need the maximum possible strength. It is safer than Goop, and cleanup is easier. Like Goop, silicon glue takes days to reach reasonable strength, weeks to reach maximum strength. For example: GE Silicone II Household Glue, 2.8 oz Fabric Glue: Beacon Fabri-Tac Permanent Adhesive, 4-Ounce works amazingly well on fabrics, saturating the surfaces enough to provide a very strong bond, but without soaking through. Depending on the application, fabric glue can be better than sewing. It remains very flexible, e.g., it would probably be great on leather or heavy vinyl (e.g., women’s handbags, shoes, luggage, etc.) Super-Glue (Krazy Glue): Super-glue is very strong, rigid, and fast. In many ways it is similar to 2-minute epoxy-except that no mixing is required. Although very hard, super-glue is brittle, and so, is not recommended for flexible objects. Super-glue is hazardous in that it can easily glue fingers (etc.) together. Previously, I used super-glue frequently on objects (e.g., jewelry) when a clear bond was required-however, Goop is better for such applications, safer, and more conveneient. Opened super-glue keeps poorly, even in tighly sealed glass containers-so I recommended packages of multiple very small tubes. BAZIC Super Glue, 3 grams 0.10 ounces, 6 Per Pack Liquid Nails/Construction Adhesive: When you need to permanently join a large amount of surface, of almost any kind, Construction Adhesive is usually ideal. If you need to join 2 2x4s to make a 4×4 Construction Adhesive is better than nails. Most construction adhesives are slightly flexible, and so can even be used on leather (i.e., to repair a loose shoe sole), etc. Construction adhesive may leave a stain on porous surfaces, and may stain-through thin surfaces. For small projects, Goop is usually a better choice. Caulking Compound: You can think of caulking compound as white household glue with alot of inert filler-to use when you need to fill holes. As an adhesive, it is the weakest on this list, but is strong enough for many purposes when spread over a large surface, such as the back of a ceramic tile. A few years ago, I made a brick column to support a mailbox. Traditionally, I should have used mortar-which would have been very time consuming. I could have used construction adhesive (albeit any excess that squeezed out would have been ugly)-but caulking compound was quick, cheap, looks good, and was more than adequate for the job. Hot Glues: In short, if you really need the glue to set quickly, particularly if you’ve got alot of gluing to do – consider hot glues. As several commenters have pointed out, there is a whole world of hot glues (which come in the form of glue sticks which are used in glue guns), many of which work better, or are more convenient, than comparable cold glues. In general, the most important attribute of hot glues is that the glue sets very quickly – in some cases – within seconds. Since most hot glues set quickly, it is tempting to apply them too thickly. Even with hot glue, for maximum strength, you should use the smallest amount that does the job, and apply moderate pressure until the glue sets. Unfortunately, I have only limited experience with hot glues, and cannot supply specific suggestions for specific purposes.

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Is J-B Weld harder than steel?

Nothing Performs Better Than J-B Weld Epoxies – J-B Weld, known as “The Original Cold Weld,” was developed as an alternative to traditional torch welding. It’s designed to be extremely effective in even the harshest environments. Because it’s a two-component (or 2k) epoxy system, it uses reactive chemistry to create the strongest bond possible.

Is J-B Weld stronger than epoxy?

I wanted to use J.B. Weld for my Polecats Thumper (for extra reassurance). My dad asked me if J.B. Weld was accualy better than epoxy. Not price wise, but its quality.

JB weld is awesome stuff no doubt.makes for really great smooth fillets too. but i’ve had better luck with epoxy.plus, setup time for jb is really long.

Ok, I get the drift I think I would prbably end up using epoxy anyways, considering I am broke! Thanks guys!

I’m not sure if most of you are aware of this but JBWeld is an epoxy. It’s special feature is the iron powder it uses as a filler. A

I voted Personal Preference. I’m building an LOC/Precision Graduator, and I opted to use J.B. Weld for the joints that touch the motor mount tube and 30-minute epoxy (Bob Smith stuff) for the rest. My theory was to use the J.B. Weld where heat would be more of an issue.

I know the 1:1 ratio epoxies, like the Bob Smith, have more filler and aren’t the top of the line, but I could have some for less than a $50+ investment in quart cans and pumps. The J.B.
Weld has worked fine as far as I can tell, with one exception that’s my fault.
I timed my fin work to the 2 hour setup-to-handling strength of the 30-minute epoxy rather than the longer J.B.

Weld figure. When I left the rocket to set up overnight with the second fin vertical, the first (which I had thought fully firmed) drooped a little. I should have given it 6 hours before rotating to the next fin. Had I done so, I’d be a very happy camper.

The J.B. Weld should be very strong and is gooey enough to help hold things in place as it cures, as long as you keep the fin vertical. One guy suggested tacking the fin with CA gel then doing the fillets (all six, counting the internal ones) in epoxy of one form or the other. At first, I thought that would leave the fin weaker than all epoxy, but in retrospect I think he’s right that the fillets have so much area that it will hold just as well and be easier to do.

It’s worth thinking about. Next time around, I’ll probably do it the same way I did it this time, except I’ll use masking tape to help keep the fins in position while they cure, and I’ll give the J.B. Weld overnight to cure for each fin. By the way, don’t use a Q-tip or similar for J.B.

Originally posted by karatekicker271 I wanted to use J.B. Weld for my Polecats Thumper (for extra reassurance). My dad asked me if J.B. Weld was accualy better than epoxy. Not price wise, but its quality. JB Weld actually is stronger, but not enough to make it worth it.

It’s very hard to get smooth.
It’s nigh impossible to finish well.
Definitely use it on anything that’s glued to the motor tube or anywhere else exposed to high heat.
But for everything else regular epoxy is already so much stronger than your materials you’re gluing, the difference would never be noticed.

Early on I used “slow” epoxies, then switched to 5 minute. I’ve had plenty of wrecks. Nothing happened with the 5 minute epoxy that didn’t also happen with the slow epoxy, and that was stress fractures at the edge of the fillet where the epoxy held together but the body and fillet separated – the paper peeled at the surface.

When I built my level 1 Graduator, I used 100% RAKA epoxy. https://www.raka.com Their epoxy is meant for boat building. It’s a great fiberglassing epoxy. The 2:1 mix is easy to use. It’s like buying epoxy from Costco or Sam’s Club. You pay more up front, but you get great big containers and the cost per serving is lower.

At first I used ketchup/mustard dispencers that you can buy at a grocery store for the resin and hardener. I used small measuring spoons to measure. Now I have a pair of pump lotion dispencers that I got from Target or Wallmart. I figure if it can pump hand lotion, it can pump epoxy resin and I was right.

For attaching things to other things, I used filler to thicken the epoxy. Maple flour works great and is cheap. I thickened to peanut butter consistency for attaching stuff, mayonaise for fillets, unfilled for laying up fiberglass. Made for a very strong rocket because the thin epoxy penetrated well.

OTOH, it took forevery to build that rocket because it took hours for the epoxy to set up. I’d put on one fin a day. That Graduator is still flying. It’s survived a forward closure failure, a number of flat spin recoveries and a few hard landings on the Bonneville Salt Flats (like landing on concrete).

I’m going back to that technique with my Level 3 rocket. I think that this boat building epoxy is superior in strength and flexibility to anything you can buy in the hobby store and ouce for ounce, it’s cheaper. I can get 1 1/2 gallons (192 oz) for $76.00.

#13

After looking at this thread last night, I took a look at the JB Weld (JBW) website; it said that you can thin it with acetone. That would make for an easier time making it look good I would imagine. JBW FAQ- https://jbweld.net/faq.php#faq015 Maybe someone should use only JBW on a rocket and enjoy that nice dull grey color. Greg

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#14

Might be the way to do Quantum Tube.

#15

Originally posted by urbanek When I built my level 1 Graduator, I used 100% RAKA epoxy. https://www.raka.com Their epoxy is meant for boat building. It’s a great fiberglassing epoxy. The 2:1 mix is easy to use. Good link! I’d not heard of Raka before. Originally posted by urbanek At first I used ketchup/mustard dispencers that you can buy at a grocery store for the resin and hardener.

I used small measuring spoons to measure. Now I have a pair of pump lotion dispencers that I got from Target or Wallmart. I figure if it can pump hand lotion, it can pump epoxy resin and I was right. Great idea! Cheap pumps. Originally posted by 11Bravo After looking at this thread last night, I took a look at the JB Weld (JBW) website; it said that you can thin it with acetone.

That would make for an easier time making it look good I would imagine. JBW FAQ- https://jbweld.net/faq.php#faq015 Maybe someone should use only JBW on a rocket and enjoy that nice dull grey color. Yep. I have a quart of the stuff on my shelf, but I don’t think it will do anything to my already cured J-B Weld.

Not sure what acetone soaked into a tube might do either. Hmmm.
Ought to be able to make a couple of card stock tubes (Think Fliskits Midnight Express.) of different diameters, cure some J-B Weld between them, then sand away the paper to have an all J-B Weld rocket.
Seems rubbery enough and yet stiff enough to do without needing a kevlar or fiberglass substrate.

Could also just paint a tube with the stuff. Then an acetone soaked used engine could be slid into the body tube to the right depth and removed quickly, to create a motor mount tube and a thrust ring at the same time. Hmmm. Cures slowly though, so you’d probably have to smear a motor with Vaseline and leave it in until the J-B Weld cures.

#16

Originally posted by 11Bravo After looking at this thread last night, I took a look at the JB Weld (JBW) website; it said that you can thin it with acetone. That would make for an easier time making it look good I would imagine. JBW FAQ- https://jbweld.net/faq.php#faq015 Maybe someone should use only JBW on a rocket and enjoy that nice dull grey color.

Greg I’ve been considering something like that for the design I;m hashing over with Bob Krech in “Advanced”. Mix JB Welb wil a lot of ceramic flake, and let it ablate as it hits maxQ and reaches 1000 degrees. I forgot about smoothing it with water. Yes, that works. Washes right off the fingers too. Acetone? As long as it says it won;t weaken it, sure.

For really easy JB fillets, use the two part epoxy putty from Apogee. Fantastic stuff. Aerodynamic playdough.

#17

While JB weld might be superior in strength, it won’t make your joints any more so. JB Weld is better for bonding metal than fiberglass & paper. I’d go with epoxy, which will soak into the fiberglass & paper giving you a much stronger bond = stronger rocket.

#18

Originally posted by DynaSoar I forgot about smoothing it with water. Yes, that works. Washes right off the fingers too. Hmmm. The J-B Weld site says J-B Weld isn’t toxic but shouldn’t be ingested anyway (duh). Does this mean that even though it’s an epoxy it may be safer to get on one’s hands than regular epoxy is? Originally posted by DynaSoar For really easy JB fillets, use the two part epoxy putty from Apogee.

Fantastic stuff. Aerodynamic playdough. Gotta get some of that stuff. I have my eye on some Apogee rockets too. Originally posted by JDcluster JB Weld is better for bonding metal than fiberglass & paper. I’d go with epoxy, which will soak into the fiberglass & paper giving you a much stronger bond = stronger rocket.

How about fiberglass fins, which aren’t porous? Is regular epoxy better there too. Always looking to further my education.

#20

That was my thought too. If I do it sparingly enough, I may not need any added nose weight. Hope not, but I’ll definitely add if if needed.

Is J-B Weld just glue?

J-B Kwik epoxy – J-B Kwik (stylized as J-B KWIK ) is a two-part epoxy, intended as an adhesive or filler, that can withstand medium-temperature environments (up to 300 °F or 149 °C). J-B Kwik cures much more quickly, but it is not as strong or as heat-resistant as the original J-B Weld.

However, J-B Kwik has the same adhesion (1,800 psi or 12 MPa) as J-B Weld, and also does not shrink when hardening.
J-B Kwik can be used to bond surfaces made from any combination of iron, steel, copper, aluminum, brass, bronze, pewter, plus porcelain, wood, ceramic, glass, marble, PVC, ABS, concrete, fiberglass, fabric, or paper.

J-B Kwik is waterproof, petroleum/chemical-resistant (when cured), acid-resistant; plus resists shock, vibration, and extreme temperature fluctuations.

Will J-B Weld bond to plastic?

Putty, Adhesive, Syringe or Silicone? Do You know which type of J-B Weld Product is best for your job? – With so many adhesive products on the market it can sometimes be difficult for the non-professional to gauge which product you may need for a particular repair. How to Use JB Weld Original J-B Weld Original can be used to repair many different materials including metal, wood, plastic, ceramic, fibre glass, brick, concrete and much more. The key to ensuring you have the strongest bond possible is the preparation of the materials to be repaired and the correct application of the J-B Weld. How to Use JB KwikWood Read how J-B Weld Kwikwood putty is used to repair a badly damaged window sill in this step by step guide J-B Weld KwikWood putty is versatile in its application thanks to its ability to be moulded before it sets. Glue Metal to Metal With so many products now available in the J-B Weld range it can be quite difficult to decide which J-B Weld product will provide the best results when gluing metal to metal. This ‘glue metal to metal’ information page will hopefully allow you to easily find the right product for the job Infographic- JB Weld Original J-B Weld Original was the first product created in the J-B weld product range and is arguably the most versatile. Infographic- JB WaterWeld J-B Weld WaterWeld is the only available waterproof putty stick in our range. Infographic- JB MarineWeld J-B MarineWeld is a two-part epoxy containing a resin and hardener that provides strong, lasting repairs. Bonding aluminium, composites, fibreglass and more. Infographic- JB KwikWood J-B Weld KwikWood is a hand-mixable epoxy putty formulated to repair and rebuild wood. After mixing it will cure to the same density as wood and can be used on interior or exterior applications. Infographic- JB KwikWeld J-B Weld KwikWeld is the fast setting version of The Original J-B Weld two-part epoxy cold weld system.

Can you apply a second layer of J-B Weld?

JB Weld can be applied in layers.

How long does it take for J-B Weld stick to harden?

The store will not work correctly in the case when cookies are disabled. Features and Benefits:

Epoxy Putty Adhesive/Sealant, Steel Reinforced, Hand Kneadable, for Wet or Dry SurfacesCures under waterCures in gasolineCures in 2-30 minutesCan be drilled J-B Weld is a hand kneadable, steel-reinforced epoxy putty adhesive/sealant that will plug holes and make permanent repairs on wet and dry surfaces. It will even cure completely submerged in water or gasoline! Simply knead thoroughly, with your fingers, a portion necessary for the repair and apply. J-B Stik will fully cure in 20-30 minutes and can be drilled, sanded, filed, tapped, machined, and painted.Requires no tools or in.prep time in. Makes no mess Works on wet and dry surfaces Simple and easy to use Plugs holes and makes permanent repairs”.

Full Specifications

Brand	J B Weld
What It Does	Steel Reinforced
Mixing Tips	Single
Weight	0.150000
Cure Time	2-30 minutes
Usage	Metal
Work Time	3-5 Minutes
Adhesive Features	drilled, filed, tapped, machined and painted
Item	Epoxy Putty

How long does it take for J-B Weld to cure in 5 min?

CURE AND SET TIME: After mixing at a ratio of 1:1, it takes 5 minutes to set and 1 hour to cure. ClearWeld is designed to cure with a clear, transparent bond when used at thicknesses of less than 15 mil. STRENGTH: J-B Weld ClearWeld has tensile strength of 3900 PSI.

How long does it take J-B Weld to cure in water?

After curing, it can be drilled, tapped, filed, sanded and painted. WaterWeld has a set time of 15-25 minutes and sets hard in one hour. WaterWeld cures to an off-white color, is rated at a tensile strength of 1300 PSI and will withstand temperatures up to 300ºF.

How permanent is J-B Weld?

What is stronger than J-B Weld?

Winner: Infinity Bond MMA 500 – The results show that is a better overall plastic bonding adhesive than J-B Weld Plastic Bonder. While the results for the PVC samples were quite similar, the results for the PP to PP and aluminum to PP samples were considerably better for MMA 500.

Why is my J-B Weld not drying?

Attached a Aeropac retainer to the HMAS Bonestell Saturday. Squirted out the portions of JB Weld, mixed it up, spread it around the aft of the motor tube and slid the retainer in place. There was a little bit of a bead around the base of the retainer so I smoothed it out into a fillet as best I could.

JB cures quickly.
Yesterday I was looking over the attachment and noticed some JB smeared on the outside of the Aeropac.
Crud, this stuff is supposed to be rockhard and nearly impervious.
In agitation I picked at it with a fingernail and it scraped off! Quite easily in fact.
Concerned I checked the mixing cup and the JB left in the cup is still cured but soft, a wee bit tacky and pliable.

A a rubber like texture. I’ve torqued on the retainer as best I could and it doesn’t budge, but what happens when it heats up? This is my first experience with JB Weld and it was purchased last week, so it isn’t an older batch. Wazzzup whit dat”????

I don’t know where you got the idea that “JB cures quickly” because in my experience, it does not. It stays soft for a few hours. That said, insufficient curing could be caused by several factors, the most important of which is: MIX REALLY REALLY THOROUGHLY.

Scrape the surface of the mixing stick, and the container/surface you’re mixing on, and then scrape them again.
And then mix.
And then repeat.
I agree,mix,mix and when you think you are done.mix some more.
Also,you should apply some JB inside the Aeropack retainer itself,and not just the motor tube,as you may squeeze all the epoxy out if it`s only on the MT.

JB Weld (not the quick set stuff) should stay workable for a good hour + Paul t

Is this JB Qwik (or however it’s spelled)? JB Qwik is not sufficiently temperature resistant for motor retention. In fact, from the one time I used it, it never hardened. I consider it pretty much worthless. Foul language. It is Kwik Weld. %^($#! how am I going to get the retainer off to reattach?

Try a hairdryer. Heat it up, which will further soften the epoxy, and then grab the retainer body with something insulating and yank it off. I’ll borrow one from one of the grrls at work and give it a shot. Glad I asked and didn’t just fly her as is.

I’ll borrow one from one of the grrls at work and give it a shot. Glad I asked and didn’t just fly her as is. Got a mini propane torch? Just wave it around the metal, trying not to set the rest of your rocket on fire. On second thought, with the luck your having lately, just stick with the hair dryer :tongue: Adrian

#10

Got a mini propane torch? Just wave it around the metal, trying not to set the rest of your rocket on fire. On second thought, with the luck your having lately, just stick with the hair dryer :tongue: Adrian Sadly enough, you have a point. I do have a propane torch that could be turned down. If it all goes to h*ll you get custody of the Llamas.

#11

I’ll borrow one from one of the grrls at work and give it a shot. Glad I asked and didn’t just fly her as is. Um, Layne? You’re likely going to make a mess of that hairdryer. Unless you’d rather one of the women never speak to you again, go to the store and spend $10 on your own hair dryer. -Kevin

#12

better yet, get a real heat gun. Um, Layne? You’re likely going to make a mess of that hairdryer. Unless you’d rather one of the women never speak to you again, go to the store and spend $10 on your own hair dryer. -Kevin

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#13

Um, Layne? You’re likely going to make a mess of that hairdryer. Unless you’d rather one of the women never speak to you again, go to the store and spend $10 on your own hair dryer. -Kevin Not sure what you think I’ll be doing with said heating device, but in one particular case that outcome would be welcome. better yet, get a real heat gun. OH BOY!! And excuse to buy another tool!!!

#16

Low prices and ever improving quality keep me going back to HF. Having things on sale that allow you to add in the 20% off coupon is really nice. Thinking over a few more tools this month,like an electric chainsaw. Oh, yeah, HF has their own version of JB Weld and it’s the slow harden variety. Worked good for the things I’ve used it for. Last edited: Sep 3, 2013

#17

Not sure what you think I’ll be doing with said heating device, but in one particular case that outcome would be welcome. Trust me, if your hide is at risk, you’ll get something stuck to it. OH BOY!! And excuse to buy another tool!!! Now you’re thinkin’! -Kevin

#18

#19

I’ve used JB Kwik to tack fins on when I’m wanting to get it done quick. Never had an issue with it not hardening. That said, I have taken advice and use the JB Weld to do retainers.

#21

No, he have to invite the girl to come to help him, he need someone to hold the dryer, I don’t think their husbands would approve.

#22

Yeah, and a heat gun will get hotter than a blow dryer, and direct the heat to a smaller area.

#23

As I was warned, the JB Kwik Weld is crap. Decided that a heat gun was something I would not be using very much so I decided to give the propane torch a shot. Encased in goggles and heavy gloves I turned the torch down to as low as a reliable flame would allow and started to gently heat the retainer.

#24

I thought heat kicks off epoxy!

#25

This has got me thinking. I really want to add rail-buttons (with stand-offs) to my Ventris, but since I’ve already installed the MMT and the retainer, I cant get the well nut in place for the lower button. If I could get the estes retainer off, I could make it work.

#26

I don’t think their husbands would approve. That, and you’d likely end up with too much hot air!

#28

Would a heat gun soften jb weld (the standard stuff, not quickweld) enough to pull the retainer? Also, would the retainer survive, or would I be replacing it? (Sorry about hijacking his thread, Layne.) I’m not sure I understand, Robert.
Are you saying there’s not enough room between the lower body tube and motor tube for a well nut? What is the diameter of the lower body tube? And Dog House has rail button standoffs.

https://doghouse.blastzone.org/DogHouseRocketry/Rail_Buttons.html

#29

#30

I’m not sure I understand, Robert. Are you saying there’s not enough room between the lower body tube and motor tube for a well nut? What is the diameter of the lower body tube? And Dog House has rail button standoffs. https://doghouse.blastzone.org/DogHouseRocketry/Rail_Buttons.html I’ve got about 1/4″ between the BT and the MMT I have stand-offs, and there is enough room for a weld nut between the BT and MMT. I could cut a slit in the body tube, and then patch it back up, or I could try filing down the weld nut, but I might mess up the threads. The well nuts that I have, I wouldn’t be able to insert them all the way before they’d but up against the MMT. I know this isn’t too big of a deal, since they are designed to contract, but then the 1″ long screws I have would be pressing into the MMT.3/4″ long screws are just short enough that I can’t engage the threads in the well nut.

Does J-B Weld burn?

Non-Flammable, It Contains No Solvents Or Volatile Organic Compounds (Vocs). The Original Cold Weld: Jb Weld Was Developed As An Alternative To Torch Welding.

Can J-B Weld be applied to hot surfaces?

JB Weld ExtremeHeat is perfect for making repairs on all manner of high-heat parts, including exhaust manifolds, mufflers, catalytic converters, exhaust pipes, engine blocks, fireplaces, smokers/fireboxes, and many more crack-prone items.